News Details

After the Gold Rush

Canadian Producers are ushering in a new era of quality north of the border.

Cave Spring Cellars, an early proponent of vinifera, planted Riesling

obtained through Hermann Weis of St. Urbans-Hof in Germany’s Mosel

Valley as early as 1978. Its Riesling Icewine Lincoln Lakeshore (93,

$60/375ml) is one of the highestscoring wines of this report. The 2017

vintage was challenging, with a cool and wet spring and summer, yet

ideal conditions in the fall benefited the late-ripening Riesling.

“Because Lake Ontario is so deep and temperate, it tends to allow for

Riesling, our grape of choice for making icewine, to ripen gradually and

completely,” explains Cave Spring managing partner Tom Pennachetti, who

serves as vice president of marketing and sales. “By cooling the

vineyards throughout the growing season at the lakeshore sites where we

grow our Riesling for this wine, the lake prevents overripening in the

late season,” Pennachetti continues. “This allows the clusters to

survive the [regular] harvest window and endure intact, if desiccated,

through the freeze-thaw cycles of late-November and early December.”

2017 Riesling Icewine, Lincoln Lakeshore – Rated 93

Floral, apricot, lanolin and white pepper aromas and flavours lead to

honey details in this balanced sweetie, showing fine cut and length.

Drink now through 2030.

2017 Riesling CSV, Beamsville Bench – Rated 90

Intense aromas of peach, apple, pine and stone are the hallmarks of this

sophisticated dry Riesling. Harmonious and vibrant, with good

concentration and a lingering aftertaste of orchard fruit and mineral.

Should develop notes of lanolin and honey with age. Drink now through

2027.

2017 Riesling Indian Summer, Lincoln Lakeshore – Rated 90

Floral, apricot, lanolin and lime flavours are the hallmarks of this

subtly sweet white. Light-footed, with a vibrant character and a long

finish. Drink now through 2028.

2017 Riesling Estate, Beamsville Bench – Rated 89

The aromas are reminiscent of a Mosel spätlese, exuding floral, peach,

lime and slate notes, yet this is bone-dry. Balanced, with a chalky feel

on the mouthwatering finish.

Drink now through 2024.

– Bruce Sanderson (2/20)