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Wine Spectator Reviews January 2020 | News image
Wine Spectator Reviews January 2020
Author: Bruce Sanderson
Publication: Wine Spectator
Published: February 2020

After the Gold Rush
Canadian Producers are ushering in a new era of quality north of the border.

Cave Spring Cellars, an early proponent of vinifera, planted Riesling obtained through Hermann Weis of St. Urbans-Hof in Germany’s Mosel Valley as early as 1978. Its Riesling Icewine Lincoln Lakeshore (93, $60/375ml) is one of the highestscoring wines of this report. The 2017 vintage was challenging, with a cool and wet spring and summer, yet ideal conditions in the fall benefited the late-ripening Riesling. “Because Lake Ontario is so deep and temperate, it tends to allow for Riesling, our grape of choice for making icewine, to ripen gradually and completely,” explains Cave Spring managing partner Tom Pennachetti, who serves as vice president of marketing and sales. “By cooling the vineyards throughout the growing season at the lakeshore sites where we grow our Riesling for this wine, the lake prevents overripening in the late season,” Pennachetti continues. “This allows the clusters to survive the [regular] harvest window and endure intact, if desiccated, through the freeze-thaw cycles of late-November and early December.”

2017 Riesling Icewine, Lincoln Lakeshore – Rated 93
Floral, apricot, lanolin and white pepper aromas and flavours lead to honey details in this balanced sweetie, showing fine cut and length. Drink now through 2030.

2017 Riesling CSV, Beamsville Bench – Rated 90
Intense aromas of peach, apple, pine and stone are the hallmarks of this sophisticated dry Riesling. Harmonious and vibrant, with good concentration and a lingering aftertaste of orchard fruit and mineral. Should develop notes of lanolin and honey with age. Drink now through 2027.

2017 Riesling Indian Summer, Lincoln Lakeshore – Rated 90
Floral, apricot, lanolin and lime flavours are the hallmarks of this subtly sweet white. Light-footed, with a vibrant character and a long finish. Drink now through 2028.

2017 Riesling Estate, Beamsville Bench – Rated 89
The aromas are reminiscent of a Mosel spätlese, exuding floral, peach, lime and slate notes, yet this is bone-dry. Balanced, with a chalky feel on the mouthwatering finish.
Drink now through 2024.
– Bruce Sanderson (2/20)


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